Corset Kit - Missing Bits

Oh well, after almost a week I haven't had ANY response from McCullough & Wallis - rather disappointing I must say.  looks like I'm going to have to sort this mess out myself... mind you, if I'm going to start making batches of corsets, it may be cheaper for me to source the individual materials rather than in kit form... but still disappointing customer service to say the least - particularly in a business and economic climate where this should be paramount!

The Hitch

Okay - so as its full steam ahead and I get to the nitty gritty of making my calico mock up of my corset I hit a snag.  The kit from McCullough & Wallis seems to be missing something - The kit includes the eyelet kit for making the lacing holes... it even includes the laces... but hang on - there is NO Lace Boning aka this: 

These fit in the corset at the back in much the same way as you other boning channels, but these have holes in them in which you line up and make the appropriate holes and affix your eyelets - NOT having these and merely putting eyelets into the cloth with nothing to support it will leave you with a weak point in your corset - especially f you are tightlacing.

What i did find odd was that the kit also included a set of hook & eye fastenings (which you can also use for corsetry instead of eyelets and lacing)  but i saw absolutely no point in making a 'complete corset making kit' with expensive spiral steel bones, lacing and eyelet making pack - and shoving in hooks and eyes?  they might as well have left out the eyelet pack and lacing altogether and just said it was a kit NOT SUITABLE FOR TIGHTLACING - or, just included the lacing bones instead.

I've emailed them to ask - lets see if I get a response! 

Taking the Plunge - The Pattern

I have bought most of my patterns, the one I am using for this tutorial is a plunge over-bust corset style.  This particular pattern is from the Corset Training tutorial pack as i mentioned in my earlier blog post on Measurements.  Some patterns that you will buy may come in fill scale ready for you to cut out and adjust later if needed.  The ones in Corset Training DO NOT come in full scale and therefore you must enlarge the pattern pieces yourself.  The instructions given in the training kit are very straight forward if you choose this method.

Anyone who has tried (and failed and tried again) to make corsets will tell you that it cannot be stressed enough that if you are wanting to make a custom fit corset you MUST make a mock up first, I have used basic cheap Calico sheeting for mine.  The last thing you want to do is hack into the really expensive Chinese brocade/leather/super expensive fabric you bought right away and ruin it if the measurements are wrong!!

The pattern I am following here comes in 12 pieces.  I have up-scaled the pattern as is from the tutorial and cut out the pattern pieces:

Once I have up-scale all the pattern pieces I then cut them out - remember, at this stage you are cutting the pieces with the ACTUAL body measurements!!

Next, using your Calico or other cotton like fabric (not your good stuff!!) pin the pattern pieces to the fabric and, leaving a 1 inch seam allowance (mark round your pattern using tailors chalk) and cut out your pattern pieces:

I have numbered my pattern pieces  so that you know which piece attaches to what!  you can do this on your actual fabric too if you wish, just make sure you use tailors chalk or other method that rubs or washes off - i.e. not a permanent felt tip marker on your beautiful white brocade fabric!!

Next time, we will be sewing the pieces of your mock up corset together!!

Taking the Plunge - Measurements

If you have NO corset making know how beforehand, making your own corset can look pretty daunting - all those pieces! where do I get my stuff from and how the hell do i put in the steel boning??  It seems like a big old battlefield of questions, and sometimes the 'net isn't that helpful, merely showing you all those beautiful corsets everyone else makes but no one wants to tell you HOW.  after-all, its their business to not tell you!  I found a very good site, called Corset Training which offers a beginners corsetry making course (downloadable PDF's) and a very reasonable price, she also includes a multitude of various corset patterns ranging from modern corset dresses to Victorian period corsets to give you that heaving bosom and support forums!   Sew Curvy will also give you quick pictorial guides on corset making and handy links to specific parts of corset making - as well as being a mine of corset making supplies.

Now, onto the good stuff!  before you start chopping away at the fabulous material you bought (in the hope it'll all go right!) you need to get your measurements sorted - be they your own or the person who you are making the corset for.  This handy image will show you where to take your measurements:

1. Measure the fullest part of the bust
2. Measure the underbust
3. Measure the waist (at its narrowest point)
4. Measure the top of the hip
5. Measure the widest part of the hip

In addition to this (and not shown on the model) for a truly custom fit, also measure the following:

1. Distance between the fullest part of the bust and the underbust
2. Distance between the underbust and the waist
3. Distance between the waist and top of the hip
4. Distance between the top and fullest part of the hip

It is important to note that at this point you are taking the ACTUAL measurements, (that is your real measurements before you deduct anything for waist reductions etc..)

Steel Boned Vs Plastic Boned

There are 2 types of corsets, Steel boned and Plastic Boned, depending on the look you want to achieve, what the corset is for, and for the most part - price.

Steel Boned

Otherwise known as waist training corsets, steel boned are precisely that, inside the seams of these corsets lie either plastic coated steel boning, or spiral steel boning (i prefer the latter as the are better quality) Corsets made from these are what I like to call 'suck in or push outs' in that you can give yourself a nipped in waist by 'training' it by tightening up the lacing on the rear of the corset - known as Tightlacing.  Burlesque performers are tranditional fans of the steel boned corset as my heroine, Dita Von Teese - she can tightlace down to an 16" waist... pretty tiny! but you dont have to go this small... when buying a waist training corset, be completely HONEST about your actual waist size (no... i would like to be measurements!!) and order a corset 4-6" smaller and no more, this gives you enough room to whittle that waist with the addition of the modesty panel (the piece of fabric that goes under the lacing at the back) without it looking like youve clearly bought a corset thats too small with a big gaping space at the back.  Here is a picture of a typical waist training corset:

From http://www.fairygothmother.co.uk

Plastic Boned

Also known as Fashion Corsets, as they do not offer any waist training capabilities.  the boning is made up of one single or sometimes thin multiple strands of plastic that gives the look of a steel boned corset, but you mustn't try to pull it in too tightly or the fabric will likely tear.. this is because fashion corsets are not reinforced with the inner Coutil fabric that gives steel boned versions much of their strength.  plastic boning is also used in the majority of underwear type 'corsets' and many wedding dress bodices... again, for shaping and defining the wearers natural figure.  Fashion corsets will often come in standard dress sizes, or small, medium, large etc...  Also Fashion corsets will not have the same longevity as a steel boned corset, wearers often find that the plastic boning will poke through the seams of the fabric after a while.  These are good if you want the look of a steel boned corset, but dont want it to pull you in...or for use as a nice piece of sexy underwear!  A typical example of a fashion corset:

 

From http://www.corsets-uk.com/

I bet your all hoping i'll stop prattling on and get on with making one soon... and i will!

Forgotten Layer

What i did forget to mention, althought this may be obvious to corset wearers, is that i did not mention that the Corset Crazy kit also does not include the outer fabric i.e. what everyone else will see!

If you are a complete newbie to corsets and corset design/make up, a corset comes with 2 layers. the Coutil, which is a very strong rigid fabric, this is the 'inside' of the corset, where your boning channels go, and is strong enough to withstand steel boning and waist training, the 'outer' fabric is whatever you want really, satin, silk, brocade, leather, PVC...

The Corset Kit

As im trying corsetry out for the first time, the logical thing (at least to me!) was to find someone who did a full kit of everything I could possibly need to make one... this proved more difficult than I thought, as a) not many places seem to want to sell you the components, rather the actual finished corset, or b) those that do, sell you the individual bits, and as a first timer, i'll be damned if I know everything I need!!

Luckily, one company in the UK, MacCulloch & Wallis: http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk sell a fabulous 'all in' kit  called Corset Crazy which comes in Black or White and includes:

• Half a metre of Coutil (this is your 'inner' fabric)
• 30cm Corset Busk (this is the front metal clasp)
• 10 x 30cm Spiral Bones
• 50 x 4mm Nickel Eylets with Punch
• 3m Cotton Corset Lace
• 3m Spiral Sleeve Tape
• 3m x 25mm Cotton Bias Binding
• 1 x 100m reel Gutermann Sew-All Thread
• 1m Cotton Hook and Eye Fastening Tape
• 6 pairs Corset Hook and Eyes
• 1 pack of 25 Hand Sewing Needles (If you plan on sewing it all by hand - which i dont!)

What it does NOT include is instructions on what the heck to do with this little lot... luckily there are a few.. not many, places where you can get some tuition if you dont know.  Again, many places are reluctant to 'give away' instructions and how to guides, much preferring you to either buy their guides and website subscriptions, or their own finished products...  As i plan to keep blogging (and quite possibly blagging) my way through making my own corsets, you should all pick up some handy tips as well - even if its how NOT to make a corset!  I'll also be chucking in a few other bits and pices along the way, such as what other stuff to wear with your sexy corset onces its done, and other vintage and burlesque inspired makes and buys...