Steel Boned Vs Plastic Boned

There are 2 types of corsets, Steel boned and Plastic Boned, depending on the look you want to achieve, what the corset is for, and for the most part - price.

Steel Boned

Otherwise known as waist training corsets, steel boned are precisely that, inside the seams of these corsets lie either plastic coated steel boning, or spiral steel boning (i prefer the latter as the are better quality) Corsets made from these are what I like to call 'suck in or push outs' in that you can give yourself a nipped in waist by 'training' it by tightening up the lacing on the rear of the corset - known as Tightlacing.  Burlesque performers are tranditional fans of the steel boned corset as my heroine, Dita Von Teese - she can tightlace down to an 16" waist... pretty tiny! but you dont have to go this small... when buying a waist training corset, be completely HONEST about your actual waist size (no... i would like to be measurements!!) and order a corset 4-6" smaller and no more, this gives you enough room to whittle that waist with the addition of the modesty panel (the piece of fabric that goes under the lacing at the back) without it looking like youve clearly bought a corset thats too small with a big gaping space at the back.  Here is a picture of a typical waist training corset:

From http://www.fairygothmother.co.uk

Plastic Boned

Also known as Fashion Corsets, as they do not offer any waist training capabilities.  the boning is made up of one single or sometimes thin multiple strands of plastic that gives the look of a steel boned corset, but you mustn't try to pull it in too tightly or the fabric will likely tear.. this is because fashion corsets are not reinforced with the inner Coutil fabric that gives steel boned versions much of their strength.  plastic boning is also used in the majority of underwear type 'corsets' and many wedding dress bodices... again, for shaping and defining the wearers natural figure.  Fashion corsets will often come in standard dress sizes, or small, medium, large etc...  Also Fashion corsets will not have the same longevity as a steel boned corset, wearers often find that the plastic boning will poke through the seams of the fabric after a while.  These are good if you want the look of a steel boned corset, but dont want it to pull you in...or for use as a nice piece of sexy underwear!  A typical example of a fashion corset:

 

From http://www.corsets-uk.com/

I bet your all hoping i'll stop prattling on and get on with making one soon... and i will!

Forgotten Layer

What i did forget to mention, althought this may be obvious to corset wearers, is that i did not mention that the Corset Crazy kit also does not include the outer fabric i.e. what everyone else will see!

If you are a complete newbie to corsets and corset design/make up, a corset comes with 2 layers. the Coutil, which is a very strong rigid fabric, this is the 'inside' of the corset, where your boning channels go, and is strong enough to withstand steel boning and waist training, the 'outer' fabric is whatever you want really, satin, silk, brocade, leather, PVC...

The Corset Kit

As im trying corsetry out for the first time, the logical thing (at least to me!) was to find someone who did a full kit of everything I could possibly need to make one... this proved more difficult than I thought, as a) not many places seem to want to sell you the components, rather the actual finished corset, or b) those that do, sell you the individual bits, and as a first timer, i'll be damned if I know everything I need!!

Luckily, one company in the UK, MacCulloch & Wallis: http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk sell a fabulous 'all in' kit  called Corset Crazy which comes in Black or White and includes:

• Half a metre of Coutil (this is your 'inner' fabric)
• 30cm Corset Busk (this is the front metal clasp)
• 10 x 30cm Spiral Bones
• 50 x 4mm Nickel Eylets with Punch
• 3m Cotton Corset Lace
• 3m Spiral Sleeve Tape
• 3m x 25mm Cotton Bias Binding
• 1 x 100m reel Gutermann Sew-All Thread
• 1m Cotton Hook and Eye Fastening Tape
• 6 pairs Corset Hook and Eyes
• 1 pack of 25 Hand Sewing Needles (If you plan on sewing it all by hand - which i dont!)

What it does NOT include is instructions on what the heck to do with this little lot... luckily there are a few.. not many, places where you can get some tuition if you dont know.  Again, many places are reluctant to 'give away' instructions and how to guides, much preferring you to either buy their guides and website subscriptions, or their own finished products...  As i plan to keep blogging (and quite possibly blagging) my way through making my own corsets, you should all pick up some handy tips as well - even if its how NOT to make a corset!  I'll also be chucking in a few other bits and pices along the way, such as what other stuff to wear with your sexy corset onces its done, and other vintage and burlesque inspired makes and buys...

Free Corset Belt Pattern!

Just thought I'd link this in, its a free belt style corset pattern from Corset Training:

 

http://corsettraining.net/free-pattern

The first tentitive steps...

I guess to begin with, there needs to be a little background history of how this came to be!  Ive long since had a fascination with corsets, I love the femininity, the curves, the elegance and of course the sheer sexiness that a well fitted corset exudes!  and that last sentance is key - the 'well fitted corset' How many of us are average? what IS average?  of course, corsetry is drastically different than going into a large retailer and buying a size 10 dress off the peg, the sizing is completely different, as does the amount of waist training you want, if you want any at all!  But as a general rule, mass produced overbust corsets will often come in 2 standard lengths:

• 15" - these tend to 'sit' just above the hip
• 18" - these tend to 'sit' over the hips

Of course, if you are not average height, these can often not sit where they should, take me for example, at 5"1 tall, i can sometimes find even 15" long cosets just a little too long in the body whilst an 18" will be so far over my hips that it is virtually impossible to sit down in one, however, someone at maybe 5"10 may have the completely opposite problem! another sizing issue many face is the 'too thin, too large' dilemma,  Corsets are supposed to create curves, so it is possible to 'suck in or squeeze out'! what regular fashion clothing cannot do.

Havign bought many corsets from several well known manufacturers, some much more expensive than others, and being a 'crafty sew & sew' (?!!) I decided to take the plunge and learn to make my own - of course there is the distant dream that I may one day take the place of Mr Pearl and become personal Corsetiere to Dita von Teese, Immodesty Blaize etc, but for now, learning is the key, and i plan to blog my way through this and share my tears and triumphs with anyone else who wants to read.  My first tentative steps will be blogged shortly!